There are some reasons why men want to modify his vehicle for the main reason to make the performance of his car or motorcycle faster. Men like to increase his adrenalin by doing tack racing. The second reason is to make different style or design of his car, so his vehicle becomes more attractive than the others vehicle.

Some risks also have to face if modify the car, for the example if there are any faults when modified the vehicle, it can make the performance of vehicle decrease or maybe it can be broken. But if the modification and customization well done it make your vehicle (engine or style) is different and impressive. Many people will be amazed with your vehicle. Before do some modifications, some tips and advices will be needed, because between one vehicle with another vehicle have own specification, so different method is necessary for modify your vehicle.

# An air deflector doesn’t have to cost you a bunch of money and when you consider what you save in replacement glass, it pays for itself right away.

# Air deflectors also help manage bug splatter the same way. You understand how it is to drive around at dusk in some areas of the back country: you get hit by swarm after swarm of the largest insects. Your wipers work overtime and, yet, still the bugs still come. An air deflector pushes bugs to the side, away from your windshield so you can see clearly.

# An air deflector is easy to install; no special tools are needed.

# Air deflectors are stylish too.

When purchasing an air deflector for your vehicle, you can order one that will fit your particular make and model. There is no one sized fits all air deflector; they are custom sized to give you the right fit every time.

Top manufacturers include Lund, Ventshade, and GT Styling. Deflectors are made of polycarbonate construction to ensure that they last long and can withstand all weather and road conditions.

For some time, an underworld of car customization has existed. But today, it’s not just low-riders and hotdoggers who want to make a personal statement. With the popularity of shows such as “American Chopper” and “Pimp My Ride,” orders for custom cars and bikes have skyrocketed.

Now, ATV and utility vehicle owners are just as eager to spruce up their rides. They are beginning to appreciate their sturdy off-road vehicles – more often associated with hunting and farming – and are dreaming up ways to make them unique. Each becomes a signature piece, reflecting the taste and style of the owner.

The trend, spearheaded by celebrities and sports stars, now is becoming more mainstream, according to Polaris, a leading manufacturer of ATVs and utility vehicles. The Southwest, especially California and Arizona, seems to be the hub of this new fad.

Here are some of the hottest ways to customize your ride:

* Flames: Since the 1950s, painted flames scorching the front and sides of hot rods have meant speed. Today, this classic design still leads the pack.

* Chrome: The luxurious Packards and Cords of the 1930s

were loaded with shine and sparkle. Grills, doors – everything that could gleam, did gleam. Even now, chrome says high style.

* Color-keyed rims: They would have loved this in the 1960s. Bright primaries, strong earth tones, simple neutrals -choose a color and your ride is instantly one of a kind.

* Sound systems: Install one in the bed or roof. Whether your music of choice is golden oldies or heavy metal, everything will sound better. And on those camping trips when you’re deprived of your usual comforts, you can still enjoy quality sound.

Ok, the only real tool that you are going to need to test your starting system is a simple multimeter. You can use a simple multimeter such as this ATD5536 Digital Multimeter or as advanced as this FLU885 Fluke 88 Multimeter. Either one of these meters will work to properly check your starting system.

The Procedure

The first thing that you are going to test will be your battery. This is the simplest thing to test. To do so you will simply need to take your multimeter and switch it to DC Voltage. Once you have your meter ready you are ready to disable the fuel system. To do so you will want to remove the fuse for the fuel pump, this will prevent the car from starting when you crank the engine. You will then want to take the red lead from your meter and place on the positive post of the battery, and then take the other lead and place on the negative post of the battery. Then crank the engine and record your reading on a piece of paper. Next you will want to test the starter, so you will want to connect your meter on the same setting across your starter. You will want to connect to where the positive battery cable is attached to the metal frame of the starter. If the reading is 0.5 volts or more different from the battery you are going to want to continue on and do the next tests. If not then the starting system is in good operating condition.
Assuming that your test has failed on the first one, so we will go onto testing the next thing in line. This test is for testing to see if your batter clamps are corroded. To do so you will again switch to DC Voltage and have the engine cranking, and place the red lead on the positive post of the battery, then take the black one and place it on the battery clamp you will have to crank the engine over while touching the posts. There should not be anything more than 0.2-0.3 Volts showing on your meter. Do this same test for the other battery clamp. If you do have more than the above voltage you will need to remove and clean your battery clamps. You can use a wire brush such as this ATD8239 Wire Brush. After you clean the clamps you will want to retest and if they pass, then you will want to do the first test again and make sure. If they fail you will want to move onto the next step.
After testing your battery clamps, we can move onto each of your battery cables. Again to test these you will have to have your vehicle cranking. To do this test you are going to have to follow your positive battery cable until it reaches the starter. Have a helper hold the one lead of your meter on the positive post of the battery, and then you place the other lead on the end connected to the starter motor. You will then switch to DC Voltage again and you should not more than 0.2 Volts on your meter. You will then want to do the same test for your negative battery cable, following it. If any of your cables have more Volts than the above, you are going to want to replace them.
Once you have tested, and or replaced the battery cables, you are now ready to move onto testing your starting circuit. You are going to want either jack the front of the vehicle up and place it on jack stands, or if you can crawl under it do so. If you need a jack and jack stands this ATD7333 Service Jack and ATD7443 Jack Stands will work. Once you are under your vehicle you are going to want to locate your starter. Then you will want to take and place your positive lead on the post on the starter where the positive battery cable is connected, then take the negative and go to the ground post straight below that post. This is testing the starter solenoid; you do not want to have more than 1 volt on the meter. If you have more than 1 volt your starter has high resistance and you will need to remove it and take it to a shop and either have them overhaul your starter, or simply buy a new one.
After doing all of these tests your starting system should be working in your vehicle. It should also help you save some money because you will not have to take your vehicle to the repair shop and get stuck with an expensive repair bill.

The sensor is relatively easy to locate and test. It can become more difficult if you run into some problems while testing. I will try to discuss some of the scenarios and what is happening. I will hopefully be able to make you understand how to properly diagnose if your throttle position sensor is faulty, or if it is another problem in your throttle position sensor circuit.

In order to be able to properly test your throttle position sensor we must first discuss what it does and how it works. First what the throttle position sensor does is it sends a voltage signal to your PCM or computer in your car it allows the computer to know the location of the throttle plate. It also tells the computer if your throttle is being opened or released so it can adjust accordingly. It works by a simple connection to your throttle plate. This connector then moves an arm that moves along a wire in conjunction with your throttle plate. This movement sends different amounts of voltage to your PCM or computer allowing it to know the throttle plate position at all times.

Now that we know what the throttle position sensor does, we will discuss how to tell if you may have a faulty throttle position sensor. One sign is if your car hesitates or stumbles when you go to accelerate. Another sign is poor idle quality. After time these problems may go away, but that is due to the fact that your PCM or computer is using other inputs and by passing your throttle position sensor.

The Procedure for Testing

You are going to want to park your vehicle.
Next you are going to want to locate your throttle position sensor. It should be located on the side of your throttle body and it should have a connector and wires going into it. On newer vehicles you will have to be careful to not mistake it for the throttle, because new vehicles are run by a motor that controls the throttle plate in conjunction with the gas pedal.
After locating the throttle position sensor you are going to want to get a pin. This pin will be used for probing the throttle position sensor connector.
You will want to take your pin and tape it to the tip of the red cable from your multimeter. If you do not have a multimeter this ATD5536 Digital Multimeter will work great.
With your pin taped to the red lead from your meter you are going to want to take the black lead and place it on the negative battery post.
With your meter grounded out you are going to want to select DC Volts.
Next turn the ignition in the on position with the car not running.
Then you can take your pin and press it into the back of the connector touching one of the wires. You will want to keep touching into the back of the wires until you get one that shows a voltage reading. It is handy if you have a manual that has the wiring diagram so you can locate the exact wire.
With your voltage reading on your meter and your throttle in the closed position you should be reading between .4-1.3 volts depending on your application.
After you record your idle reading you are going to want to manually open the throttle slowly. Watch the voltage and it should climb slowly, peaking out at around 4.5 volts.
You just tested your throttle position sensor. Now we will go over some of the readings that you may get and what these readings could be.
The first reading that you might get is that the throttle position sensor might read 5 volts whether it is open or closed. This means that you have an open wire somewhere. To locate the open you are going to want to do a resistance test from the connector to the correct wire on the PCM connector. This will test the wiring all the way from the throttle position sensor to the PCM and any wiring in between. You will want to test every wire on the connector. Whichever wire tests at an extremely high resistance rating or does not show continuity is open.

An easy repair for this instead of ripping open the wiring harness is first to follow the harness all the way to the computer looking for burned wire loom or crushed wire loom. If you do not locate any burned or crushed wire loom then you want to just add a new wire. To add a new wire you are simply going to go to the throttle position sensor and the wire that is open and cut it about an inch out. Then take and solder on a new wire. If you do not have a soldering gun this ATD3740 Soldering Gun Kit will work. Then simply run your wire along the wiring harness taping every couple of inches to hold it in place. Then you are going to locate the other end of the wire at the computer and cut it about an inch or two out and simply solder on the other end of wire.

The next reading that you could get could be a low voltage that stays the same regardless of throttle position. This can be caused by high resistance in one of the wires or connectors on the throttle position sensor. To check for high resistance again you are going to connect your multimeter with the red into the connector to the throttle position sensor, and the black to the back of the proper pin on the computer that has the correct wire in it. You should not have an extremely high reading. Check all of the wires and make sure they are all right around the same resistance. If one has an extremely high reading compared to the others, then that one likely is the wire with high resistance. High resistance can be caused by dirty or corroded connectors so look at all of the connectors and clean them. It can also be caused by a corroded wire also. To check for this look for spots in the loom that maybe has a hole in it where water could get in and corrode the wire. After fixing either the corroded wire or the dirty connectors your reading should be back to normal.

This simple procedure can help you do it yourself and help you save a lot of money in the process.

The test is a manifold vacuum test. This test sounds like it has nothing to do with fuel economy, but it has everything to do with it. This test is so simple to accomplish, yet it is so often overlooked by mechanics. So if your vehicle’s fuel economy has dropped dramatically then you may need to do this test.

The manifold vacuum test will help you to determine if your MAP sensor is receiving the correct vacuum readings. This is vital, because the MAP sensor is what controls how much fuel is injected into the engine. If you have a vacuum leak in a hose going to your MAP sensor this will show that there is no vacuum present and the MAP sensor will think that your vehicle is under a heavy load and is at a wide open throttle. This will make your computer inject more fuel, thus making your vehicle drastically lose fuel mileage.

When testing your manifold vacuum you are going to need to understand that you will have a vacuum between about 0 inches of vacuum all the way up to around 21 inches of vacuum. As long as you are in that general range then your vehicle is running in top shape. We will now discuss the procedure.

The Procedure

You are going to want to open your hood and locate some service related information on your vehicle. The internet should be able to help.
With the proper service information you are going to want to locate your MAP sensor on your vehicle. Use the information that you gathered and locate this.
You are then going to want to remove the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. This is where you are going to test from.
To test the vacuum at the hose to the MAP sensor you are going to need to purchase a vacuum tester like this KDT3683 Vacuum Pump. This vacuum tester has a pump to provide vacuum when you need to, it also comes with multiple adapters to allow you to adapt to and fit many different size hoses and sensors.
Next you are going to have to get the help of another person. This person is just going to have to start the vehicle, while you connect your vacuum gauge. If you cannot get the help of someone else you can just connect your KDT3683 Vacuum Pump to the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor and make sure that the vacuum pump is not going to hit any moving parts on the engine. Then you will want to start your vehicle, it may run rough just to warn you.
Once you have your engine running you are going to want to go look at your KDT3683 Vacuum Pump gauge and read the gauge. You should have between 15inches of vacuum and 21 inches of vacuum on the gauge at idle. If you have anything lower your vacuum hose to your MAP sensor may be leaking causing you to have this reading. This could be one of the causes of your poor fuel mileage.
You can next test the vacuum off idle to see what it is. It should be between 0 inches and 21 inches of vacuum. This will just insure that your vehicle is in good running condition.
If your KDT3683 Vacuum Pump read below 15 inches when you tested at idle you are going to want to do some further testing.
The testing is fairly simple. You will just need a ATD5540 Multimeter and your KDT3683 Vacuum Pump. The first test that you are going to want to do is a voltage reference test. To do this you are going to want to remove the connector. Then connect your ATD5540 Multimeter with the red to the voltage wire, and the black to a good ground, I recommend the negative post of the battery. You should have around 5 volts DC.
If you do not have 5 volts then you may have a wiring problem or the MAP sensor may be bad, I would recommend taking it to a mechanic for further diagnosis. If you have 5 volts continue to the next step.
Next you are going to want to remove the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. Then test the same wire to the negative battery post and you should have 4.5-5 volts.
If that passes then you will want to KDT3683 Vacuum Pump and apply 5 inches of vacuum and check the voltage and it should be around 3.75 volts.
The last test that you will want to do if it passes is to apply 20 inches of vacuum and you should have a reading around 1.1 volts.
If your MAP sensor passed all of those test it is working correctly, and I would recommend taking your vehicle to a shop and have it further diagnosed. If it failed any one of steps 11-13 then you likely have a faulty MAP sensor.
You just finished testing your MAP sensor, and you likely fixed the poor gas mileage of your vehicle.

There are several different areas to discuss when it comes to electrical tools that would be used on vehicles. We will discuss some of the basic tools needed to properly work on your vehicles electronics. We will also try to discuss how to perform some basic electrical tests.

Basic Tools

We will discuss some of the basic tools that you will need to properly work on your vehicles electrical system. We will discuss the basic operation of each and give a little detail on how each item works.

Multimeter

A multimeter such as this one ATD Digital Multimeter are key to checking electrical systems. The multimeter allows you to check different things such as resistance, amperage, current, and continuity. These help play a vital role in diagnosing a vehicle. They allow the user to check to make sure certain components are within specifications. How a multimeter works, is by allowing the user to take two probes and turn a switch to the proper setting they are going to test and touch the probes to those wires or terminals being tested and get a reading.

Test Light

A test light such as this one ATD Continuity Tester are also a handy tool to have. The ATD Digital Multimeter from above will allow you to test a circuit for continuity, but the test light is easier. Some of the advantages to the test light is the ease of use and the speed.

To test a basic circuit with the test light is easy. If you are testing a component and want to see if the component has power to it all you need to do is take your test light hook the clip onto a good ground and poke into the wire. If the test light turns on then the component has power going to it. Then you can move onto testing the ground on the component. To do this clip your test light clip to a good power source and poke the ground wire. If the light comes on then the ground is good. Right there is some basic electrical testing.

Soldering

A soldering gun comes in handy when you need to replace a connector. This ATD Dual Heat Soldering Gun Kit is great for someone who does not have a soldering gun. How a soldering gun works is it heats up the wire hot enough to melt the solder. The solder then binds the wires together; it is almost like a welder for wire.

The Procedure

Take the two wires and cut a half an inch off the ends, you will want to use a wire cutter such as this Automatic Wire Stripper Crimper . The Automatic Wire Stripper Crimper works much better than the old kinds, all you do is put the wire in the top and squeeze the handles and it automatically strips the wire. Now twist the exposed wires so they are tight.
Now overlap the wires in the middle and twist one of the wires end on the end closest to the insulation on the other wire, and do the same for the other wire. Make sure they are smooth and tight.
Now take your soldering gun from your ATD Dual Heat Soldering Gun Kit and plug it in. You will want to take a file and clean the tip just by scarping some of the old solder off. If you don’t have any files this 6 Pc. File Set works great and you will have extra files to use on other jobs.
Now take your soldering gun and pull the trigger heating it up. Let it heat up and take some solder to the tip just to get a little coating.
Now keep holding the trigger and take the soldering gun to your wires. Hold it underneath the exposed wires and move it back and forth.
Take your solder and push onto the wires keep moving it until it starts to melt. Once it starts to melt you will want to move the length of the exposed wires and keep applying solder.
You want to get a nice even coating of solder. You do not need lots. Just a enough to cover the wire. Now to protect your wires you will want to cover them with Electrical Tape 3/4″ making sure to wrap them tight and even.
Now you are done. To practice soldering simply take old wire and solder it together in different ways and see how it looks and holds up.
Crimp on Connectors

There are many people who will choose to buy a kit such as this ATD 360 pc. Terminal Assortment Kit . These work great if you use them correctly. A crimp on connector is one that you simply strip the end of the wire you need to connect, put the proper size connector over, and take your crimping pliers and squeeze them together. This sounds easy enough, but for them to work correctly you need to use the proper size connector with the proper gauge wire. Once you have matched the connectors and wires you will need to use a Automatic Wire Stripper Crimper to crimp the connector. How you do this is by taking the connector with the wire inside of it and match it to the color and gauge on the dot on your crimper and place in that slot. Now take both hands and squeeze the handles as tight as you can.

NOTE: Crimp on connectors can come undone so it is a good idea to take and place some solder on the inside of the connector to make sure.

Basic Techniques

Now that we have discussed the basic tools, we can discuss some of the basic techniques of working with electronics. It is a good idea to go out and purchase if you do not have these items, and here is the list: Automatic Wire Stripper Crimper , ATD Dual Heat Soldering Gun Kit, ATD Continuity Tester, ATD Digital Multimeter , Electrical Tape 3/4″, and ATD 360 pc. Terminal Assortment Kit .

Now we will discuss the basic way a system works. For an electrical component to work, it first needs to have a good power source. This is usually from either the battery or another source. When it comes to checking a component for power you will want to check using your multimeter that the component is getting power. You can also check this using your test light. I described above how to test for power using a test light. Now that you have checked for power you will either have power or not have power.

No Power

No power can be caused by a couple of different things. One of the first things to check is a fuse. A fuse is easily checked by simply inspecting it or pulling it. You can check some by looking at them or you may have to take your multimeter and see if it has continuity. The next easiest thing to check is to see if the power source that your component isconnected to is giving power to your component. You can do this by checking the battery or the fuse terminals with either your test light or your multimeter. A possible other cause of not having power is that your wire you tested may not be connected to a power source. Another cause of no power to your component could be caused by a short in your wire. This could mean that your wire is broke and grounding out somewhere. This is more difficult to find, because you have to trace your wire.

Power but your component doesn’t work

If you had power coming to your component the next thing that I would check would be the ground. You will want to take your test light and connect to your power wire that just proved has juice and connect the clamp to that wire. Then take your test light and test the ground that is in question. If your light comes on the ground is good, if not then the ground is bad.

Bad Ground

If you have a bad ground it could be due to a bad connection in the wires, or it could be due to the fact that too many wires are connected to the ground, or it could be simply that the spot is a bad ground. To fix a bad ground I would recommend installing a new connector unless the old one looks fine and locating a good piece of metal where there is no paint and put the ground on that using a nut or bolt.

Good ground but the component does not work

If you have a good ground but the component does not work we can simply assume that the component is bad. We can do this because the component has power and a ground, but does not work. This mind set and the above simple procedure can be used to test any component and help verify the problem.

Now that we have discussed exactly why you should follow all of the instructions due to the safety of yourself, we will now go into the process of changing your fuel filter. I will try to make changing your fuel filter simple with this article, since it seems they always like to go in the winter. Hopefully this article will help you speed up the removal and installation of a new fuel filter.

The Procedure

First you will want to park your vehicle in a location where it can sit for an hour or so.
Next you will want to go purchase your new fuel filter for your vehicle. Note(some fuel filter’s require the use of special line tools, some may come with them in the kit, or you may have to purchase them separately)
Before you start to remove your old fuel filter you MUST do this otherwise you risk the chance of pressurized fuel being sprayed everywhere. Most vehicles are fuel injected now days meaning that there fuel line pressure is much greater than the old carbureted engines. You will need to relieve this fuel pressure. To relieve the fuel pressure you will want to locate your fuel pump fuse or relay box. Once you have located this you will want to start your vehicle. With your vehicle running you will want to pull the fuel pump fuse. Your vehicle should die shortly, meaning that the fuel pressure is relieved.
Now that you have relieved the fuel pressure from your lines, you will want to jack your vehicle up and place it on jack stands. If you do not have a jack or jack stands these will work great, ATD7333 2 1/2 Ton Jack and ATD7443 3 ton Jack Stands. Make sure you lift your vehicle on a piece of the frame or axle. Also make sure your jack stands are on sturdy level ground.
Now locate your old fuel filter, it should be towards the back of the vehicle. Once you have located it make sure it is the same as the one that you purchased before.
Ok now you are ready to start removing your old fuel filter. If you have the special connectors you will need to get a fuel line removal kit like this ATD 3399 15 Piece Disconnect kit. If you have the other style you will simply need open end wrenches like this ATD Tools 1550 17 Piece Combination Set.
Now that you have your wrenches what you need to do is use them to remove the fuel lines. I will discuss how to do this with a system that uses connectors that open end wrenches will work on; the special removal tool kit will come with instructions. You will want to locate the two nut looking things on the fuel line. These are called banjo fittings. You will want to place one wrench on one of the nuts and one on the other. Then place a paper towel over the wrenches to prevent fuel from going all over you.
Then turn the wrench furthest away from the fuel filter counter clockwise while holding the other wrench. This will separate the lines. Make sure to make a note of the washers on the fittings. These need to be replaced when you install your new fuel filter to help prevent leaks.
Next you can remove your old fuel filter. Be careful, because it probably still has fuel left inside of it.
Now you are ready to install your new fuel filter. You will want to make sure to replace those washers that I stated in step 8.
Then position your new fuel filter in place. Note some fuel filters are in line filters, meaning that they will have a directional mark. MAKE SURE TO READ THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THOSE FUEL FILTERS AND INSTALL WITH THE ARROW IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION.
Now you are ready to reattach your fuel lines using the new washers.
Reattach all of your fuel lines and make sure that you attach anything that held the fuel filter in place.
You can then lower your vehicle down.
Make sure before you try starting your vehicle that you place the fuel pump fuse back in place.
Now you are ready to start your vehicle and it might take a couple seconds because your fuel lines are not pressurized.
You are finished!
Now that you have finished installing your new fuel filter, you will want to try to install a new one every year or two. Your vehicle should run much better now that you have a new filter.

The common fuel injection systems on today’s vehicles use either injectors or some sort of throttle body injection in conjunction with your vehicles sensors to inject the correct amount of fuel for your current driving situation.

For a fuel injection system to work correctly you must have all injectors working, an adequate fuel supply to the injectors from the fuel tank, and the computer telling the injectors how much and when to inject their fuel. Without any of the above items the fuel injection system would not work properly and will cause your vehicle to run poorly.

We will discuss some different tests you can do to make sure your fuel system is at peak performance and operating correctly.

Checking fuel pressure

First you will want to park your vehicle in a safe location.
Next you will want to purchase the correct fuel pressure test kit for your vehicle. If you are unsure, this ATD5549 Fuel Injection Test Set contains adapters for nearly all vehicles worldwide.
Once you have your fuel injection test kit you will then need to look into the manual and determine where your fuel injection test port is.
With the fuel injection test port located you are ready to locate the proper adapter that will allow you to connect your pressure gauge to the test port. Follow the instructions on setting up the gauge.
Now that you have your gauge positioned you will need to bleed the air from the gauge. You will need to have a friend help you at this point. Have your friend go inside the vehicle. You will then take the attached hose to the fuel injection gauge and run the clear hose into a container to catch the excess fuel. Have your friend cycle the key to on with you holding the pressure bleed. You should see fuel running out of the clear tube into your container. If not look at the instructions that came with your gauge on how to bleed the air out of the tester.
With all the air bled you are ready to test to make sure that your vehicle is priming the fuel system. To do so you will want to hit the bleed button to get your needle to drop to zero. Then have your friend cycle the key to on without starting the car and watch the needle on the gauge. It should stay around the same psi as it was at the beginning. If it falls rapidly it could either be a fuel pump problem or it could be that your injectors are allowing fuel to flow thru and leaking the pressure. Either way record the number with the key just cycled on.
Next you will want to take a running fuel pressure test. This is accomplished the same way except with the vehicle running. Compare that fuel pressure to the primed fuel pressure. Purchase a service manual for more information on the specifications or talk to your local garage.
Checking injector pulse with noid light

Again you will want to park your vehicle where you can work on it for awhile.
Next you will want to purchase a noid light test kit. They are relatively cheap; this ATD5612 Noid Light Set comes with lights that fit most fuel injection systems.
Before starting your test these next two steps are critical. First you are going to want to disable the spark on your vehicle. This will prevent your car from starting.
Next you will HAVE TO REMOVE ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS! IF YOU DON’T YOU CAN RISK HYDROLOCKING YOUR ENGINE! Removing the spark plugs gives the fuel a chance to escape the cylinder without being compressed and locking the engine up.
Now you are ready to connect your noid light up. To do so disconnect one injector and connect the noid light to the injector connector.
With the noid light connected simply turn the key on. Watch for the noid light to light up for a couple seconds. This shows that the injector is being primed. If it does not light up, take note.
Next crank the engine while watching the noid light. It should flicker this shows that the injector is pulsing. If not take note again.
Continue with all of the injectors. Make sure to record any failures. Then you can consult your manual and help determine what the cause could be.
You just fully tested your fuel injection system on your vehicle. This should insure that your vehicle is getting the correct amount of fuel that it needs.

A common problem with fuel pumps is that they wear out over time and simply fail. Replacing a worn out fuel pump is not that difficult of a task, but it can be extremely dangerous. If you think about it you have a tank full of fuel and lines containing pressurized fuel. This is why it is important that you follow these steps to help you accomplish the task of replacing your fuel pump safely.

The Procedure

Park your vehicle where you can work on it if possible.
Back the back end of your vehicle onto car ramps. If you don’t have car ramps, these BLZ11905 Car ramps will work.
Get a fire extinguisher and have it handy just in case a situation arises that you may need to use it for.
Before starting to disconnect any fuel lines or start this task you will want to relieve pressure in the lines. Some vehicles have a special button that you can push, while others you will have to locate the fuel pump fuse or relay. Then start the car and pull the fuse or relay until the car dies. THIS STEP IS VITAL; OTHERWISE YOU CAN RISK DANGEROUSLY FLAMABLE GASOLINE SPRAYING OUT OF FUEL LINES AT EXTREMELY HIGH PRESSURES.
With the pressure relieved, you can now disconnect the negative cable from the battery to prevent any accidental sparking.
Now you will need to locate the fuel pump. On some vehicles it is connected to the outside of the tank. Other vehicles the pump is located inside of the tank. I recommend consulting a service manual to determine where your pump is located. Also on vehicles where the pump is located in the tank, you will want to determine if there is an access panel of some sort to access the pump, or if you have to drop the fuel tank.
We will start with the removal of a pump located outside the fuel tank. To remove this you will want to use flare nut wrenches to remove the fuel lines. If you don’t have flare nut wrenches these SKT381 Flare Nut Wrenches will work for standard vehicles. If your vehicle use fuel lines that do not use nuts then you will need to purchase a fuel line disconnect set such as this LIS37000 Fuel Line Disconnect Set to remove the lines. Have a rag handy to catch any fuel that drips out of the lines.
With the lines disconnected you can remove the bolts holding the fuel pump onto the tank.
Then remove the electrical connectors.
If your pump is located in the tank and you have an access panel, remove the access panel.
Then do like step 7 says and disconnect the fuel lines.
Then use a screw driver and a SOFT FACED HAMMER (hard faced hammers could spark causing an explosion) and tap the ring in the counter clockwise direction gently turning it until you can remove the ring. If you don’t have a soft faced hammer this ATD4073 Non Sparking Hammer will work.
With the ring removed, disconnect any electrical connections and remove the fuel pump.
If your pump is located in the tank and does not have an access panel you will have to remove the fuel tank.
This is where the job becomes difficult. If your tank is more than half full, it is recommended that you use some sort of siphon to remove the fuel. I recommend for safety reasons that you use a siphon no matter what and remove all of the fuel.
With the fuel removed, you will need to disconnect the fill neck from the fill cap. There should be bolts or screws holding them together. Disconnect the fill tube.
Next locate the fuel lines and disconnect them like you did in step 7.
Disconnect any electrical connectors.
Locate the bolts that are holding the straps in place on your fuel tank. Remove these bolts. I recommend getting a friend to help hold the tank in place once you removed these. Also this is where it is a good idea to have removed all of the fuel to prevent holding in your hands a bomb.
Set the tank aside, and make sure to keep all flames or sparks away, even though the tank is empty it is still full of explosive fumes that could explode.
Then do like step 12 says and use the soft faced hammer and screwdriver to remove the ring holding the fuel pump in place.
We have now removed the fuel pump from all three variations. Now we will go into what to do next.
With the pump removed it is a good idea to check the fuel line conditions and electrical connector conditions. If they are damaged replace them.
With everything in good shape you can reinstall the fuel pump. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure to follow all torques for fasteners.
After everything is back in place you can reinstall the fuse or relay.
Then reinstall the negative cable on the battery.
Start the vehicle, it may take a couple times of cranking the engine over, and this is because the fuel in the engine has been used up when you relieved the pressure.
After the vehicle is running you will want to crawl under it to make sure that you do not have any fuel leaks.